How many times has the mighty 100 Series won 4WD of the Year? For good reason too : they’re a tough truck with terrific off-roadability from standard and a reputation for reliability and comfort. That means they’re more expensive than most but tend to hang on to their resale value, too. Are they better than a good 80 Series? Only because they’re newer. Bargains for off-roaders include the standard RV models with manual-locking hubs and a rigid front axle. The trap here is that many 100 Series RVs were flogged senseless by mining firms and hire companies, and you need to be fairly certain you know what you’re looking at to take on something that’s been driven by every flatfoot in town. Still, if the price is right you can get almost new for a genuine second-hand price. The next cab off the off-road rank would have to be the GXL diesels with the mighty 1HZ motor and five-speed manual transmission. Like the RVs, the diesel GXL comes with a rigid front axle : getting rarer given the petrols, V8s and GXVs all have wishy-washy wishbones. While in non-turbo form they’re slower than lunch at the pub, there should be enough shekels left in the pot to bung on an aftermarket turbo or at least play with the air filter and exhaust.

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Everybody makes kits for the 100 Series, so parts won’t be a problem. Snorkels are top of the list, followed by a suspension upgrade : two or 3in won’t upset their excellent steering : and shifting the spare to a rear mount makes them slide off the rocks a lot easier, too. Big rubber is mandatory for the skinny-wheel models, but at least it’ll fit given that wide body. The rear diff is a limited-slip jobbie, which is only bettered by a good locker.

COMMON PROBLEMS

The front diffs are the same as those fitted to the HiLux, with a reverse-cut high pinion. That means they’re a time bomb if driven hard in reverse, and a reverse snatch recovery is almost guaranteed to see teeth-spitting action. The same goes if you fit a locker up front and use it hard. Look for signs of corrugated-road use. They’ve got the best dust sealing on the planet, but bang anything up enough tracks and there’ll be signs of dust under the instruments and some red stains around the exhaust and engine block no matter who did the detailing. Check the bonnet support rubbers : a sure sign of dirt work if they’re pounded to cracking point : and the hinges on the rear doors. And if you’re the softie who bought the GVX with everything, I’d be keeping an eye on the front CV boots, too. The Toyota independents have a habit of splitting boots and chewing out CVs, even around town.

Introduced in 1997 to replace the aging GQ, the new GU was an off-road rocket right from day one. With coil suspension all around and rigid axles both ends, a stock GU was capable of mixing it with most mildly modified trucks while still giving one of the best rides around. With a new price averaging $10K cheaper than the 100 Series, GUs tend to be popular second-hand because that price difference gets reflected right down the line. They’ve got one of the toughest drivelines in the business : tougher than a Toyota : as the number of GUs running trouble-free in competitions testifies. The big question is motors : do we go petrol or diesel? For long distances, the economy of a diesel is definitely the go, but note that you’ll pay more for one initially, and it’ll cost more to service along the way. The 2.8L turbo models are cheap as chips to run, but they come with a lightweight drivetrain compared to big brother and aren’t recommended for big towing jobs. That said, they’re definitely quicker than the big-lump 4.2L diesel in naturally aspirated form, which has a reputation for power right up there with Briggs & Stratton. I like the 4.2L though, it’s a fair-dinkum truck motor, and while the later turbo models with stock mild boost aren’t overly exciting either, they’re practical and solid. Consider the 4.5L petrols, though. Cheaper to start with, they’re easily converted to LPG (they don’t need cylinder headwork), smooth and, err, powerful: compared to the oil burners anyway!

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Right, well we’re starting with one of the best chassis/running-gear combinations in the history of off-roading, so anything you add : and there’s plenty to choose from for these popular trucks : will make a useable difference. Snorkels first, especially for the diesels, and then a suspension upgrade and some decent rubber are the first steps to off-road nirvana. A 5in lift : with castor correction and adjustable Panhard rods please! : makes room for 35in rubber. Yum! GUs come with a good limited-slip rear diff : Ti models even get an automatic locker : and their robust front diff means a locker up the sharp end is definitely the all-tracks ticket.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Whining gearboxes (in the lower gears, especially second) and ‘notchy’ changing were commonplace in the early GUs, but given the sheer strength of the components, it’s more a question of putting up with the noise rather than fixing it. Check clutch operation; that’s all it is sometimes. However, check to make sure the truck doesn’t jump out of gear (by jerking the accelerator on and off in each gear). Steering wobbles caused by big-lift suspension kits put in by people who don’t fully understand the importance of radius rod lengths and angles, and castor correction plates, are a common GU drama. Current thinking has rubber bushes winning out over the less-flexible urethane styles, but check with your expert. Check the fan blades : they go brittle, crack and shoot through the radiator on older units. And run a close eye over the fuel pumps on diesels to make sure they’re not leaking thanks to the rubbish they call fuel over here.

Out of the ‘common stuff’ and in to the enthusiast’s machinery! XJs were first imported in 1995 and the model run lasted here until 2001. Because they were never understood (or bought for that matter), except by the Jeep faithful, there are some superb examples around, and prices are pretty low for the standard of equipment on offer. Even the base-model Sports Wagon – aptly named thanks to a tiny rear seat – comes with airbags, electric windows and central locking. Limiteds do the full-leather number with the lot, and while there weren’t as many sold, they often represent the best value on the second-hand lot. Like all Jeeps, the Cherokees were built to handle the rough stuff straight from the factory. A rugged, fully galvanised body means rust isn’t such a big issue, though it’s harder to spot serious damage too, so a careful inspection is a must: especially around the gutters. Engine-wise, most of the units you’ll see feature the magnificent straight-six 4L Chrysler motor that, while a tad tough on petrol, hauls with 131kW. Backed by an all clutch (no bands) four-speed electric auto and Jeep’s Select-Trac (a type of central diff lock), the big six is capable of smoking it up at the lights and pounding the hills hard. Coil front suspension and leaf at the rear is super-flexible, though most will need the Bilstein shockies swapped by now. One in 20 Cherokees came with the little 2.5L turbo-diesel backed with a manual five-speed. Great economy corresponds with lousy power, but they’re a package renowned for longevity.

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Protective gear, suspension and tyres pretty much rounds up the requirements for turning an XJ into a decent weapon. Possibly because they’re so good standard, it’s almost as rare to find a radically modified Cherokee as it is to find one that’s done serious off-road work. With an easily obtainable 3in lift, some 31in tyres and the swaybars disconnected, you’ll probably only need an Air Locker to turn your Chucky into a super-sized chunky! Radical types can access not only the local product but also an amazing array of American-crafted bits, too.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Given the strength of the Cherokee, most ‘inherent’ problems are more the result of off-road abuse – easy enough with all that stomp underfoot – rather than anything else. Check the rear Dana 44 differential and bearings, especially if the unit shows signs of big tyres, big loads or heavy towing miles, because they are known to chop out under stress. Similarly, the front wheel bearings are the sealed-for-life type, which means plenty of sand or mud swimming tends to clog them up badly. The big six often springs an oil leak around the rear main seal, but if it’s only a ‘tiddle’, don’t worry too much – rope-style seals are known to tinkle for years before taking a good piss. Look for cracks in the fancier styles of alloy wheels – more a result of too much throttle than anything else. Engine-wise, they’re virtually bulletproof, though more than a few owners of older models have had problems with the electronic-ignition sending unit. When this baby plays up, it can be hard to pick – until the day you trailer it home anyway.

IN BREIF Daily driver: 4 stars Off-road potential stock: 4 stars Potential to modify: 3 stars Long-distance capability: 2 stars Value for money: 5 stars Towing ability: 5 stars Sex appeal: 5 stars, in skimpy leather Price Range: 1995 to 2001 : $8000 to $30,000 LANDROVER DEFENDER The Defender was, surprise, surprise, engineered for the military market first and foremost. That rugged, square-panelled aluminium body sits on a set of chassis rails with more beef than a butcher’s shop. Genuine long-travel suspension, and a design that doesn’t leave anything snagging when you’re dragging, makes any Defender the real thing off-road. This is especially given the power characteristics of the turbo-diesel motors coupled with gearing that’s genuinely low-range capable. The 200Tdi, a four-cylinder donk used until 1999, puts out the same power as Toyota’s naturally aspirated 4L six while drinking almost half the fuel. No wonder Defender owners would rather fight than swap! The Defender’s coil-sprung ride is a massive improvement over the old-series leaf springs, but that’s about it for comfort technology. The interiors look spartan and offer beaut things like a handbrake lever that digs into your thigh and seats that are, err, ‘sittable’, just. Anyone used to a 40 Series Toyota (pick me!) would probably crow about the comfort level while everybody else is still laughing. Great resale values, terrific parts backup (albeit expensive) and strong demand means that you’ll be lucky to find a bargain Defender unless it’s hauled out of a swamp on a long rope. The post ‘99 five-cylinder diesel (still 2.5L) is smoother and faster still and has a reputation for longevity with regular servicing. OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS It’s rare to see a Defender jacked up because they come with so much clearance from standard. However, a snorkel should be top of the list of add-ons if the truck you’re looking at still hasn’t got one. ARB has lockers to suit for the very serious, and there’s no shortage of terrific suspension components available, too. Most Defenders were sold with narrow steel wheels, so wheels and tyres should be high on your list : unless you like the ‘noddy box’ look anyway. I’d be fitting a Long Ranger fuel tank too, because with that sort of economy, the Defender can truly be classed as a long-range tourer. Given that sort of usage, a dual-battery system is mandatory : got to keep the beer cold, haven’t we? COMMON PROBLEMS Axles and oil seals have a habit of weeping with age, but usually this is more bother than bother fixing. Early (pre-’94) models had quirky electrics, mostly nailed with Bosch componentry when the Germans bought Rover in 1994. Build quality is often sighted as a problem due to the English working man’s creed of warming up to his task slowly : usually around Wednesday : before tapering off sometime after lunch on Thursday. You’re right, that’s pretty much Mudflats rules, too. But Land Rover has offered superb after-sales service in the last decade, and any dramas like that have probably been nailed by now. Look for floppy rear sliding windows and cracks around the rear door hinges : all that’s holding the spare wheel in place. These are signs of big-time dirt work, and with the Defender’s trick door sealing (the rubbers are on the body, not the door), you’ll find signs of dust almost anywhere the detailer couldn’t reach. But most of all, check carefully for signs of beach driving (sand, beer stains and a fishy smell come to mind), because too many idiots figured that the all-aluminium body is rustproof, so there’s no need to wash her off. Which is bullsh*t, as the chassis, the backsides of the wheels, any drivetrain components not wearing a good oil leak and a host of fixtures like door frames and the like are all going to cop merry hell from salt immersion. They just look prettier when they drop, that’s all. IN BRIEFDaily driver: 3 stars Off-road potential stock: 5 stars Potential to modify: 4 stars Long-distance capability: 5 stars Value for money: 3 stars Towing ability: 4 stars Sex appeal: 1 star for girls, 5 for boys Price Range: 1992 and up : $11,000 to $43,000 TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 75 SERIES Have you seen the way good 75 Series Toyotas have been holding their value the last few years? No worries, the 78/79s are more comfortable and more powerful, but love for the old workhorse has kept prices strong. Love? For something uglier than Fat Kevvy at closing time? That’s because the 75 Series has been the backbone of most farming, tour and mining operations in the country since it replaced the 40 Series in 1985. They didn’t change much except the body shape, even then proving that when you’re on a good thing, people will stick to it. The 75 Series Toyota is possibly the most honest truck in the world. They have a truck-like ride, truck-like handling and truck-like comfort : old truck, that is. With so many around, the whole trick to getting a good 75 is to look at a lot of them and pick the best one. The less rust and off-road work the better, and do some maths on them, too. It’s easy enough to replace a motor! OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS Seeing as most 75s will come barred-up, snorkelled and ready to rock, the best value mods for the new owner will be to soften up the suspension. Those leaf packs are over-built something chronic, because Toyota knows more than a few farmers are likely to stuff a tractor on the back. A good suspension man can lose some leaves and give the others a tweak, or you can invest in something like ARB’s aftermarket OME suspension, which completely transforms the ride. The diesels were slow as, so a turbo and intercooler is a thought providing the basic motor is good enough to handle it. Petrols benefit from better breathing – especially extractors and a fat pipe, which makes a tad more power but usually gives a big improvement in fuel economy. You can go as far as you want modifying 75s – there are buckets of bits and plenty of experience from a host of people who’ve already pushed the boundaries with event trucks and the like. COMMON PROBLEMS Watch that gearbox, especially fifth gear. Driven well, they’re not a problem, but abused : as a lot of rentals and fleet 75s tend to be – and they’ll drop cogs big-time. No problems, it’s not a tough job to rebuild a Tojo five speed because they’re a pretty basic and popular unit, but be aware that there’s a bill attached, and it might be you paying it! IN BRIEFDaily driver: 2 stars Off-road potential stock: 4 stars Potential to modify: 5 stars Long-distance capability: 4 stars Value for money: 5 stars Towing ability: 4 stars Sex appeal: 0 stars, unless you’re in Cootamundra Price Range: 1986 and up : $4000 to $25,000 JEEP TJ WRANGLER Since 1997, we’ve been getting TJ Series Wranglers delivered to our shores, and Australia’s been a better place because of it! Looking close enough to the original WW II Jeeps to tickle an old digger’s heart, the Wranglers : which haven’t had any major changes since ‘97 because they didn’t need them – are a weird combination of solid old-style engineering tizzied up with some of the latest thinking around. Actually, they’re not ‘weird’ so much as typically American. The big, 4L straight-six engine has been a Dodge trademark for 40 years, but with high-tech additions like electronic multi-point fuel injection and engine management, it’s better than ever. Hauling a little chariot like the Wrangler is something this motor could do at idle, so the result is tyre-shredding performance from the lights and an ability to jump out of places off-road as if someone just lit the rocket. The original Jeeps – and all since – have always had flexible suspension, but the Wrangler’s long-travel coils all round make it one of the best, and most comfortable, off-road weapons in standard trim. Yet they’re slung off a ladder chassis reminiscent of a 1940s truck and topped with a fully galvanised body shell that’s stronger than a Hummer. Wranglers are possibly the most underrated vehicle on the roads. Most people have no idea how well they perform, off-road and on, and don’t realise they’ll last forever with a bit of maintenance. They just buy them because they’re sexy. Finding good second-hand Wranglers at the right price is easy, too. TJs aren’t for family men maybe, but they’re more fun than anything else you can do with your pants on. OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS The trick to Wranglers is to find people who know what they’re doing first. Then listen to a few opinions and work out where you want to go. Thanks to a few quirks of the Dana driveline components – like a gearbox spline that’ll drop out if you jack them too high – lifting TJs needs to be done properly if you’re thinking more than 50mm. Rear diffs – Dana 44s – are more than strong enough for an ARB Air Locker, and plenty of drivers run them on the Dana 30 up front too, though ‘use with caution’ is the recommendation. With lockers, decent tyres and a 50mm lift, a Wrangler can be dragged almost anywhere. COMMON PROBLEMS Look for weeping around the rear axle and pinion shafts, and from the rear engine oil seal, too. None of this is dramatic unless drip turns to flood, but while you’re down there, check for signs of severe off-road use. With so many Wranglers around, you’re better off finding a clean ‘street rod’ unless the price justifies a bush-bashed baby instead. Look for rust in the floor pans. Jeeps are thoroughly rustproofed at the factory, but if rust is going to kick off, this is where you’ll see it. And if it’s had a suspension lift or is running bigger tyres, make sure nothing’s rubbing steering wise that might indicate the job wasn’t done right. Get a Jeep expert involved and you’ll get a rock-chewing rocket! IN BREIF Daily driver: 4 stars Off-road potential stock: 5 stars Potential to modify: 5 stars Long-distance capability: 2 stars Value for money: 3 stars Towing ability: 2 stars Sex appeal: 8 stars Price Range: 1997 and up : $12,000 to $40,000 MITSUBISHI N SERIES PAJERO Pajeros have earned one of the best reputations in the industry for customer loyalty. That means more people trade their old Pajero in on a newer Pajero rather than experiment with another brand. There’s good reason for that – they’re incredible little trucks. Part of that is sheer excellence of engines. Both V6 motors (3L and 3.5L DOHC petrols) offer great poke with decent fuel economy, yet remain easy to service. The 2.8L diesel is a reliable old slug, but in turbo-intercooled form, it’s got nearly 30-percent more of everything. Pajeros don’t have any real driveline faults worth mentioning and tend to be ‘unbustable’ if driven sensibly. Seeing as most of them spend their lives picking up kids from school rather than leading the rally pack, it’s just a case of finding the right one. So, plenty of good ones to choose from and the wife will love driving it when you’re too pis-, err, tired. The prices are right too, despite their strong resale market – terrific value for money is why! OFF ROAD MODIFICATIONS Torsion-bar front suspension means a 40mm tweak up front is about it, but the Pajero has one of the best-tucked bums in the business, so that’s not such a drama. Mitsubishi must have guessed that you’d be buying its car, because it put in three protection plates as standard. For what they are – more rally bred than off-road – they’re a very capable vehicle already. I’d bung on a decent bar for protection and somewhere to hang the lights, and spend the money saved on hardcore gear on a decent fridge instead. But I’d definitely go for a snorkel – very cheap engine insurance on a vehicle that’ll suck water well before it’ll stop! COMMON PROBLEMS Look for signs of rock damage and scraping underneath. If it’s really sad, you’re probably looking at your own old Pajero and not the one you’re thinking of buying! While down there, check the body panel seams – there are plenty of them – for signs of rust, because they do trap sand and dust. Other than that, there are no common problems, just individual ones. My suggestion is to get a Pajero enthusiast/mechanic to check it out and do any repairs if you need them. Pajero parts aren’t bad but they have a reputation for being trickier to work on than average. Get someone who knows the tricks! IN BREIFDaily driver: 4 stars Off-road potential stock: 3 stars Potential to modify: 2 stars Long-distance capability: 4 stars Value for money: 4 stars Towing ability: 3 stars Sex appeal: Come on, we’re married… Price Range: 1993 and up : $7000 to $48,000 NISSAN GQ PATROL The GQ Patrol replaced the MQ in 1988. They might have used the old body shape with some flared quarter panels, but from there on down it was all new. Coil springs all around when Toyota was still using leaf packs was a real advancement in comfort and ride, and what surprised most people back then was that they suddenly found a lot of that soft articulation we love, too. Yep, they were the toughest off-road wagon in the world back then, and that means that a good GQ still has everything it takes to play rough these days, too. But production stopped eight years ago, so straight away we’re considering vehicles that are often 10 or more years old. No worries if it was owned by a weekend polisher with a heated garage, but for the most part, picking a good GQ is all about finding the one with the least amount of wear and tear. There are plenty out there and they’re better value than ever, so if you’re looking for a good truck with plenty of potential, it’s hard to go past a GQ Patrol or the Ford-badged Maverick of the same era. OFF ROAD MODIFICATIONS Everybody and his dog have already modified their GQ, so there are plenty of parts around and a lot available second-hand and cheap, too. Start with some new suspension unless it’s already been done, because those soft coils do sag, and the Aussie-engineered aftermarket products are so much better it’s incredible. I’d go for a 50mm lift to start with to avoid steering-geometry dramas, but allow enough room for some bigger rubber. The slow, old diesels love a turbo, and all engines benefit from better breathing. Patrols don’t need a lot of anything really, but I’d be thinking lockers both ends if you’re getting serious. The diffs both ends are tough enough to take it, and once locked, well, try finding somewhere you can’t go, short of a tree. COMMON PROBLEMS Leaky power-steering boxes – check them, they can get expensive to repair. And look at the front seat mounts and window winders too, because these are components that have been known to crack under the strain of too many corrugated miles. If they’re looking dodgy, I’d be having a close look around the rear coil-spring mounts to the chassis – one of the few things on a Patrol that will break under constant hammering. IN BRIEF Daily driver: 3 stars Off-road potential stock: 4 stars Potential to modify: 5 stars Long-distance capability: 4 stars Value for money: 6 stars Towing ability: 4 stars Sex appeal: Only with big rubber Price Range: 1988 to 1997 – $4000 to $23,000

Stronger than a 100 Series but a whole lot cheaper, yet they’ve got the rounded shape that’ll have most people thinking it’s a more current model – especially once you’ve plastered barwork all over it! A good 80 is my personal pick of the second-hand market – not the least because I’m trying to buy one!
Pick of the bunch for distance touring would have to be a GXL diesel – not much power but very reliable, and cheaper on fuel. The petrols aren’t cheap to run, but cheaper service costs and more power make them attractive regardless. You do see the 24-valve turbo-diesel motor appearing in the 80 range, but it’s rare and usually expensive.

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

A snorkel to get rid of the under-guard air intake and a suspension upgrade – they like a 50mm lift – are the two things you should consider first. There’s plenty of room for a dual-battery conversion, and for family camping and a fridge, that’ll be high on the list.
The 80 has a real diff up front, so consider diff locks both ends for the tough stuff. Fuel range on the dual-tank models is superb for a standard vehicle, but a lot of people shift the spare from underneath (to get better clearance) and then use some of that space for a bigger tank.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Check the wheel bearings and inner hub seals on constant four-wheel-drive models (all except the base model), and look for signs of excessive tyre wear in weird patterns, indicating at the least that an alignment is needed. Make sure the engine cam belt has been changed at the 100K intervals – there should be a sticker visible. The four-speed automatics (most of the petrol GXLs ran them) are superb but do like regular servicing, so unless there’s a service record, it’s a good investment to get them checked. The five-speed manuals get a bit crunchy going into second when they’ve done some hard work, so make sure you check for the next level – jumping out of gear – if that’s the case. Look for signs of fresh paint around the rear window sills and roofline. The 80s aren’t bad for rust but they’re worth enough in good condition for dodgy operators to dolly them up for the yard.

Suzuki’s Sierra has lit more off-roading flames than alomost any other truck. Often bought because of it’s inherently cool ‘no-frills’ soft-top shape, the fact is a good Sierra is a tough and versatile little off-roader that can perform some amazing feats in the real dirty world. Sierras are virtually indestructible, very cheap to run, easy to maintain and can be built into killer trucks for competition use. The other side of the coin is that they’re small – two kids, two adults and a six-pack at most – and have a choppy, short wheel base ride that when combined with a small, high-revving motor; doesn’t make them the best choice for long distances. The best ones would have to be those built between 1988 and 1996 with the wider body but a rigid axle. Look for low kilometres – they’re a bit suspect after 150,000km.

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Suzi’s seem capable of slip sliding over alomost anything in standard form with the right nut behind the wheel, but a few inches of lift sure does help. It’ll also help fitting some bigger rubber too, lifting both the gearing and the car. Consider disconnecting the swaybars and fitting some long-travel shocks at the very least. This is so you can take full advantage of their naturally decent articulation. One of the most popular Sierra mods is to dump the 1300cc motor in favor of a 1600cc Vitara unit. Although some engineering is required on the Vitara block, the benefits both on-and off-road are suburb. Consider lockers, too. The Sierra’s diffs and CV’s are strong enough to take them!

COMMON PROBLEMS

The biggest problem you’ll have is finding a Sierra with a rust-free body, because every man and his girlfriend love hanging around the beach in their soft-top! Check the underbody thoroughly. They came out lightly painted from the factory, so make sure a heavy coat of black ‘goop’ is there for protection and not to block up the holes. Check around the plastic flares if it’s got them, too. Make sure the transfer case shifts in and out of low-range easily. The problem’s usually a small bush worth $20, but if it’s gone its worth checking for signs of jumping out of gear and listening for loud whining noises, too. No dear, I’m talking about Suzukis…

Unbreakable, eh? Not really, despite what the ads say. The fact is the HiLux is a lighter and smaller truck, so it’s built lighter to start with. The whole trick to buying a used HiLux is to discern the sort of life it has had. If it’s never had an oil change and the bump stops on the rear axel are worn off from hauling concrete blend all day, then a HiLux can be the saddest buy on the block. Little engines need regular oil changes – especially the dirty little 2.8L diesel – because without them they will wear out twice as fast as a big lump. Having said all that, there are still some monster reasons for buying a HiLux. They are tough – the front diffs were strong enough to run in the new 100 Series – and that combination of economical running costs and suburb reliability, it’s no wonder the HiLux has such a terrific reputation. In the real world, not much is better for sheer versatility than a dual-cab HiLux.
My pick would be a rust-free, pre-1997 vehicle, because they were still underpowered before the release of the 2.7L EFI and 3L diesels, so there’s less chance of running-gear wear, and they’re a whole lot cheaper. Then you can spend the money saved on hotting it up, and the sky’s the limit here!

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

The trick to modifying HiLuxes is to keep them as light as possible! Long-range tanks and steel bullbars should be avoided unless really necessary – the best feature about your new ‘Lux off-road is that it’s light enough to scrabble out of trouble, so don’t stuff that up! Leaf-sprung HiLuxes are easily lifted and really benefit from more clearance. Don’t go more than 3inches unless you have to, because they have a habit of falling over as it is. The IFS-equipped ‘Luxes can be tweaked a couple of inches without steering traumas. Maximise the articulation of the suspension by fitting long-travel shocks, and unless you need all those load-bearing springs at the rear consider dropping a few to get some flex. Other than that, you might consider fitting Air Lockers front and back and bung a Commodore V6 under the bonnet to make the thing totally unstoppable!

COMMON PROBLEMS

The 22R Toyota petrol motor is prone to timing-chain rattles and when worn out is very expensive to re-build – another good reason to go for a V6! That’s similar for the diesels too, though they’ll pull some incredibly long miles if looked after properly. If not, you might hear some ‘knockety knocks’ from the bottom end – a sure sign you’re in the wrong lot! Toyota’s 2.8L diesel is a dirty motor at best, and without regular oil and filter changes, ash build up in the oil can block the small oil galleries in the crankshaft. On the independent-suspension models, look for signs of sag up front – a sure sign that the truck has been pounded or overloaded too often. Weak springs are a HiLux trait, so you will probably get to replace them with something much better anyway. Watch for signs of hard, corrugated track use, like dust in the instruments, cracked seat mounts and rattling windows. After-all that’s the sort of damage a bloke wants to do to his own truck himself!

Like Stallone himself, Rocky owners would rather punch on than swap their trucks for something ‘boringly mainstream’. It’s no wonder Daihatsu Rocky’s are possibly the most underrated truck on the market. They’re heavy – nearly 2t – and if you hop underneath you can see why. The chassis is super-solid, the Salisbury-style diffs are massive for a vehicle this size, and the gearbox and transfer would be at home on a truck twice the size. Motors – both petrol and diesel – are from the Toyota family, so they come with Toyota trappings, as in great reliability but expensive parts and servicing. Basically, the only thing that’ll stuff a Rocky is lousy servicing. My tip would be to try and buy yours from the last owner so you can get a feel for whether or not he knows where the dipstick is, or whether he’s, in fact, the dipstick himself. And keep an eye out for the superb turbo-diesel Sportswagon – a good one of these can be a bargain buy!

OFF ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Problem number one – not many people have modified Rockys, so the aftermarket suppliers don’t stock much for them, and there’s not a lot of knowledge around either. Having said that, the suspension is simple to work for a few inches of lift, a set of big wheels and tyres are easy to source, and a snorkel is only a trip to the plumbing supply house away. That’s here in Australia, though. Overseas, the Rocky (or Rugger, Feroza, Fourtrack or Taft as they’re known in lesser countries) has been one of the most popular off-roaders ever. There are clubs devoted to them and plenty of enthusiasts and information, too. Borrow someone’s computer and leap on the web for more information.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Body rust isn’t any worse than most Japanese vehicles, but it usually spreads from the top (drip rails) down. So if you find holes in the floor, check to make sure the rest of the car isn’t totally shot. Look for cracks around the resin top, especially that rear door. And check the seat frame for cracks – it built a tough truck, but Daihatsu’s seats are for lightweights… Mechanically, there’s nothing special to check other than making sure the transfer case shifts cleanly and the gearbox is not jumping out of gear. On the diesels, check the radiator for bubbles indicating a cylinder head crack or leak. They are prone to that if owners haven’t kept up the flushing/protection thing, and it’s expensive to fix.